Understanding Bimatoprost and Hair Growth
Bimatoprost is a synthetic prostaglandin analog, a class of fatty acids with hormone-like effects in the body. It was first developed and approved to treat glaucoma and ocular hypertension by lowering pressure inside the eye. A serendipitous discovery revealed that patients using the eye drops experienced longer, thicker, and darker eyelashes. This led to the development of Latisse, an ophthalmic solution containing 0.03% bimatoprost, specifically for the treatment of eyelash hypotrichosis (inadequate lashes).
The mechanism behind hair stimulation
Bimatoprost’s ability to promote hair growth is rooted in its influence on the hair growth cycle. The hair cycle has three main phases: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting). Bimatoprost is believed to extend the anagen phase, keeping hair follicles in a state of active growth for a longer period. This prolonged growth phase results in longer and thicker hairs. Furthermore, the medication can stimulate melanogenesis, the process that produces pigment, which can lead to darker hair color.
For eyebrows, this mechanism works similarly. By prolonging the anagen phase of eyebrow hair follicles, bimatoprost can help enhance the fullness and length of the brows. It can also make fine or vellus hairs more noticeable by darkening them.
Clinical Evidence for Eyebrow Growth
While the FDA has not approved bimatoprost for eyebrow growth, medical professionals often prescribe it “off-label” for this purpose based on clinical judgment and supporting studies. Several studies have investigated its effectiveness:
- 2016 Study (Carruthers et al.): A randomized, double-masked trial involved 357 participants with eyebrow hypotrichosis. Patients using 0.03% bimatoprost, once or twice daily, showed significantly greater improvement in eyebrow fullness and darkness compared to those using a placebo. Over 7 months, 77.1% (once-daily) and 83.9% (twice-daily) of bimatoprost users achieved at least a one-grade increase on the Global Eyebrow Assessment scale, versus 43.0% for the vehicle-only group.
- 2019 Study (Suchonwanit et al.): A smaller split-face study on 30 patients showed that both 0.01% and 0.03% bimatoprost significantly improved eyebrow density and diameter after 16 weeks. The 0.03% concentration was numerically, though not statistically, more effective.
- 2024 Study (Załęcki et al.): A prospective study compared a bimatoprost cosmetic preparation to sweet almond oil. Participants reported significantly greater improvement in eyebrow density and elongation with bimatoprost over 5 weeks. It’s worth noting that participants' perceived satisfaction was much higher with bimatoprost.
The Realities of Using Bimatoprost
How to apply bimatoprost for eyebrows
Proper application is crucial to maximize results and minimize side effects. The general steps are based on the FDA-approved method for eyelash application, adapted for eyebrows.
- Cleanse: Start with a clean, makeup-free face, especially around the eyebrow area.
- Prepare: Place one drop of the bimatoprost solution onto a new, sterile applicator. Never reuse an applicator to prevent contamination.
- Apply: Carefully trace the applicator along the length of the brow, ensuring even coverage. Use a fresh applicator for the other brow.
- Blot: Gently blot any excess solution that may have strayed beyond the brow line with a tissue to prevent unwanted hair growth in other areas.
- Frequency: For optimal results, apply once daily, typically in the evening.
What to expect and timeline
Results are not immediate and require patience and consistency. While some notice improvements within a month or two, maximum results typically take between two and four months of continuous daily application. Because eyebrow hair has a longer growth cycle than eyelashes, it may take slightly longer to see a significant difference. It is important to understand that the effects are temporary. If you stop using bimatoprost, your eyebrows will gradually return to their original appearance over several weeks or months.
Potential side effects
While generally well-tolerated, bimatoprost can cause side effects, which may include:
- Eyelid skin darkening: This is a common side effect and is usually reversible upon discontinuation of treatment.
- Itching or irritation: Mild irritation or itchy eyes are common but often resolve on their own.
- Conjunctival hyperemia: Redness of the eyes is another potential side effect.
- Hair growth in unintended areas: Accidental application or runoff can cause hair growth on other parts of the face. Proper application and blotting are essential.
- Permanent iris color change: In rare cases, bimatoprost can cause the colored part of the eye (iris) to turn brown, which is permanent. This is more commonly associated with long-term use for glaucoma and is less of a risk with topical application to the brows, but users should be aware.
Bimatoprost vs. Other Eyebrow Treatments
Feature | Bimatoprost (Latisse) | Eyebrow Makeup | Microblading / Permanent Makeup |
---|---|---|---|
Mechanism | Extends the hair growth cycle, leading to thicker, longer, and darker hair. | Adds temporary color and shape to create the illusion of fullness. | Involves tattooing pigment into the skin to create semi-permanent hair-like strokes. |
Effectiveness | Clinically proven to increase hair density and length for those with sparse brows, especially with consistent use. | Instant but temporary effect. Only covers the skin and existing hairs. | Provides a longer-lasting, defined shape but is not real hair. Fades over time. |
Longevity | Requires daily, continuous use. Effects reverse if use is stopped. | Lasts until washed off. Reapplication is needed daily. | Lasts 1-3 years before touch-ups are needed. |
Cost | Can be expensive and is usually not covered by insurance. Cost varies. | Varies widely from affordable pencils to high-end products. | High upfront cost (hundreds to over a thousand dollars) but is a long-term solution. |
Side Effects | Potential for eyelid darkening, itching, and rare permanent iris color change. | Typically minimal, but some individuals may have skin sensitivity to certain ingredients. | Risks include infection, allergic reaction, scarring, and dissatisfaction with the result. |
Convenience | Daily application at night is required. Requires a prescription. | Quick and easy to apply and remove daily. No prescription needed. | Requires an initial multi-hour appointment and follow-up touch-ups. |
Conclusion
Does bimatoprost make eyebrows grow? The answer, supported by clinical studies and dermatological practice, is yes, it can be an effective treatment for eyebrow hypotrichosis, or sparse brows. By extending the hair's natural growth cycle, it helps produce longer and thicker hairs. However, it is essential to remember that its use for eyebrows is off-label and requires a prescription and the supervision of a healthcare professional. Before starting treatment, individuals should be fully informed of the potential side effects, including temporary skin darkening and the very rare possibility of permanent iris color change. As the effects are not permanent, consistent and long-term application is necessary to maintain results. For those seeking fuller brows, a thorough consultation with a doctor can help determine if bimatoprost is the right choice, weighing the benefits against the potential risks.
Learn more about hair growth and its complexities at the National Cancer Institute's drug dictionary.