Bimatoprost (Latisse): The Science Behind Eyelash Growth
The primary drug proven to increase eyelash growth is bimatoprost, a synthetic prostamide analogue. Initially developed and approved to treat glaucoma by lowering pressure inside the eye, clinicians observed a serendipitous side effect: significant eyelash growth. This discovery led to the development of a specific formulation, Latisse, which received FDA approval in 2008 for treating eyelash hypotrichosis—a condition of having inadequate eyelashes.
How bimatoprost works to grow lashes
While the precise mechanism isn't fully known, bimatoprost is believed to work by influencing the hair growth cycle.
- Extending the anagen phase: The hair growth cycle has three phases: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting/shedding). Bimatoprost is thought to prolong the anagen phase, allowing lashes to grow longer before they shed.
- Increasing the number of follicles: The medication may also increase the number of hair follicles in the growth phase at any given time, leading to denser and fuller lashes.
Proper application and expected results
For best and safest results, bimatoprost must be applied correctly using the sterile applicators provided.
- Preparation: Wash your face and remove any makeup and contact lenses. Wait 15 minutes after application before reinserting contacts.
- Application: Place one drop of the solution on the sterile applicator and draw it carefully along the skin of the upper eyelid, at the base of the lashes, from the inner to the outer corner.
- Removal of excess: Immediately blot any excess solution with a tissue to prevent it from running onto other areas, which could cause unwanted hair growth.
- Repeat for other eye: Use a new, clean applicator for the other eye and discard both after use to prevent contamination.
With consistent, once-nightly application, patients typically begin to see results in about two months, with the full effect visible around 16 weeks. It is important to continue use to maintain the effect; once the medication is stopped, lashes will gradually revert to their original appearance.
Potential side effects of bimatoprost
While generally safe when used as directed, bimatoprost can cause side effects. Awareness of these is crucial before starting treatment.
- Ocular irritation: The most common side effects are eye pruritus (itchiness) and conjunctival hyperemia (eye redness).
- Skin darkening: A temporary darkening of the eyelid skin can occur but is typically reversible upon discontinuation.
- Permanent iris pigmentation: In rare cases, especially with direct instillation, bimatoprost can cause a permanent brown darkening of the iris, which can be irreversible. This is more common with the higher concentration glaucoma drops.
- Unwanted hair growth: If the solution repeatedly touches other areas of the skin, such as the lower eyelid or cheek, it can cause unwanted hair growth in those areas.
- Macular edema: A serious but rare side effect is macular edema (swelling in the back of the eye). Patients with a history of certain eye conditions should discuss this risk with their doctor.
Comparison: Bimatoprost vs. OTC Eyelash Serums
Understanding the differences between prescription bimatoprost and over-the-counter (OTC) lash serums is key for making an informed choice. The primary distinction lies in regulatory oversight and active ingredients.
| Feature | Bimatoprost (Latisse) | Over-the-Counter Serums |
|---|---|---|
| FDA Approval | Yes, specifically for eyelash growth (hypotrichosis). | No, not approved by the FDA for therapeutic eyelash growth. |
| Active Ingredient | Bimatoprost, a synthetic prostamide analog. | Varying ingredients such as peptides, botanical extracts, or other prostaglandin analogs (some potentially unregulated). |
| Efficacy | Clinically proven to be effective in increasing length, thickness, and darkness. Considered the gold standard. | Results are generally less dramatic and more focused on lash conditioning and health rather than measurable growth. |
| Safety and Side Effects | Potential side effects are well-documented and must be monitored by a doctor due to risks like permanent iris darkening. | Safety varies by product. Potential for eye irritation or allergic reactions, but not typically associated with the serious risks of bimatoprost. |
| Acquisition Method | Requires a prescription from a licensed healthcare provider after a consultation. | Can be purchased without a prescription from cosmetic stores or online. |
| Cost | Can be expensive, though a generic version (bimatoprost) is available. Insurance typically doesn't cover cosmetic use. | Prices vary widely depending on the brand and formulation. |
| Continuation of Use | Must be used consistently to maintain results; lashes revert to previous state upon discontinuation. | Results are often less pronounced and also depend on continued use. |
Conclusion
For those seeking a powerful and clinically proven solution for inadequate eyelashes, bimatoprost (marketed as Latisse) is the drug of choice. Its ability to promote longer, thicker, and darker lashes is well-documented in clinical trials. However, its use requires a prescription and is accompanied by potential side effects that must be carefully managed with a healthcare provider. While many over-the-counter serums exist, they lack FDA approval for eyelash growth and typically offer more subtle, conditioning-focused results. Ultimately, the decision to use a prescription medication for cosmetic purposes should be made in consultation with a medical professional to ensure it is the safest and most effective option for your needs.
For further reading on bimatoprost and its effects, you can visit the MedlinePlus Drug Information page.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I buy Latisse without a prescription?
No, bimatoprost (Latisse) is a prescription-only medication in the U.S. and cannot be purchased over-the-counter. A consultation with a licensed healthcare provider is required to assess your suitability and safety for using the drug.
How long does it take to see results with bimatoprost?
While some people may notice improvements in as little as 4 to 8 weeks, it typically takes 16 weeks (about 4 months) of consistent, daily application to achieve the full desired effect of longer, thicker, and darker lashes.
What happens if I stop using bimatoprost?
Once you stop using bimatoprost, your eyelashes will gradually return to their previous appearance over several weeks to months, as the medication is only effective while you are using it.
Is the darkening of the iris from bimatoprost permanent?
Yes, if bimatoprost causes the colored part of your eye (the iris) to darken to a brown color, that change is likely permanent. However, darkening of the eyelid skin is usually reversible if you stop treatment.
Can I use bimatoprost on my lower eyelashes?
No, it is not recommended to apply bimatoprost to the lower lash line. The FDA-approved application is specifically for the skin of the upper eyelid at the base of the lashes, using a new applicator for each eye.
What should I do if I forget a dose of bimatoprost?
If you miss a dose, simply apply it the next evening as scheduled. Do not try to compensate for the missed dose by applying extra solution. Using the medication more than once a day will not increase its efficacy.
Are there any alternatives to prescription eyelash growth drugs?
Yes, over-the-counter eyelash serums are available that contain ingredients like peptides, vitamins, and conditioners to nourish lashes. While they may improve the health and appearance of lashes, they are not FDA-approved to medically increase lash growth and generally provide less dramatic results than bimatoprost.
